Holy Unmercenaries

The Church of the Holy Unmercenaries on Ios is a small traditional Orthodox chapel dedicated to the Anargyroi — a group of early Christian saints venerated across Greece for performing miraculous healings and accepting no payment in return. The name itself, from the Greek anargyroi (without silver), points directly to their defining virtue: they gave freely. On an island where whitewashed chapels punctuate nearly every hillside and coastal path, this church carries a distinct devotional identity tied to healing and selfless service.

The chapel sits at coordinates 36.7496°N, 25.3233°E, placing it in the interior of Ios, roughly in the area between Ios Chora and the surrounding hillside villages. Like many chapels of its type on the Cyclades, it was likely built and maintained by a local family or small community, serving as both a neighborhood place of worship and a point of pilgrimage on the feast days of its patron saints.

Ios is not an island typically associated with major ecclesiastical monuments, but it holds dozens of modest chapels like this one — each with its own saint, its own story, and its own small congregation of faithful who gather for name-day liturgies and private prayer. The Holy Unmercenaries chapel is one of those quietly significant places.

What to Expect

The exterior will almost certainly follow the classic Cycladic chapel form: thick whitewashed walls, a low arched doorway, and a small bell either mounted on a simple bell arch or hanging from a nearby post. The interior, if open, is likely a single nave — compact enough that only a handful of people can stand comfortably — with an iconostasis separating the nave from the altar, oil lamps flickering in front of the icons, and the faint smell of incense and beeswax candles.

Icons of the Holy Unmercenaries would typically occupy a central place here. The most commonly venerated pair from this group are Saints Kosmas and Damian, twin physician-brothers from Syria who treated the sick without charge in the 3rd and 4th centuries. Other saints sometimes grouped under the Anargyroi title include Saints Kyros and John, Saints Panteleimon, and Saints Thallaelaeus. You may find any combination of these represented in the chapel's iconography.

The surrounding landscape near this location is typical of inland Ios: dry stone walls, terraced hillsides, and the occasional fig or olive tree. The chapel itself may be enclosed by a small courtyard wall, which is common on the island. Bring a head covering if you plan to enter, and dress modestly — shoulders and knees covered — as you would for any active place of worship in Greece.

How to Get There

The coordinates place this chapel within reasonable reach of Ios Chora, the island's main town. From the Chora, head in the direction of the interior hillside paths that connect the village clusters. On an island as compact as Ios, most chapel locations are reachable on foot from the Chora within 20 to 40 minutes, depending on the path.

If you are driving or riding a scooter, Ios has a single main road running from the port of Ormos up through the Chora and continuing toward the beaches to the east. Side tracks branch off toward inland chapels. A local map or GPS with the exact coordinates (36.7496°N, 25.3233°E) will help you locate the correct turnoff.

There is no dedicated public bus stop serving small inland chapels. The KTEL bus on Ios runs between the port, the Chora, and the main beaches, so you would walk or hire a scooter for the last stretch. Taxis are available from the port and Chora and can drop you nearby, though the driver may not know the specific chapel by this name — showing the coordinates on your phone is the most reliable approach.

Parking near small chapels on Ios is informal; pull off the track without blocking the path.

Best Time to Visit

The most meaningful time to visit any Orthodox chapel dedicated to the Anargyroi is on or around their feast days. Saints Kosmas and Damian are celebrated on July 1st and November 1st in the Orthodox calendar, with the November feast being the primary one for many communities. Other Anargyroi feasts fall on January 31st (Kyros and John) and July 27th (Panteleimon). If this chapel observes one of these dates with a liturgy, you may arrive to find the doors open, candles lit, and a small gathering of local worshippers.

Outside of feast days, small Greek chapels are often locked. The best chance of finding the door open is in the early morning — before 9:00 — or in the early evening, when the keyholder may stop by to light the oil lamps. If the chapel is closed, you can still appreciate the exterior, light a candle in the outdoor narthex or candle stand if one is present, and leave quietly.

In terms of weather, summer on Ios is hot and dry, with the meltemi wind picking up in July and August. A morning visit avoids the worst of the heat. Spring (April–May) and autumn (September–October) offer cooler temperatures and a quieter island, making them ideal for exploring chapels off the main tourist circuit.

Tips for Visiting

• Dress modestly before you arrive. There is no changing area near a small rural chapel. Shoulders and knees should be covered for both men and women; carry a scarf or light layer in your bag.
• Use coordinates, not just the name. Small chapels on Greek islands are rarely signposted. Save 36.7496°N, 25.3233°E in your navigation app before you leave the Chora.
• Knock or wait if the door is locked. The keyholder — often a nearby resident — may be willing to open the chapel if they see a respectful visitor. A simple greeting in Greek (Kalimera) goes a long way.
• Do not photograph the interior without permission. In active Greek Orthodox chapels, photography inside is considered disrespectful unless a sign or the caretaker explicitly permits it. Exterior shots are generally fine.
• Light a candle if you wish. Most Greek chapels have a candle stand near the entrance with thin beeswax candles available for a small voluntary offering. This is the standard way to show respect and participate in the tradition of the place.
• Combine with other inland chapels. The interior of Ios has several small churches and chapels within walking distance of one another. A half-day walk through the inland paths can take in multiple sites without retracing your route.
• Expect quiet. This is not a tourist attraction with a ticket booth or a guided tour. It is a working place of worship that happens to be accessible to respectful visitors. Approach it accordingly.
• Check the local calendar for panigiri celebrations. If the chapel's feast day falls during your stay, a small outdoor gathering with food, music, and liturgy may follow the service — these are among the most authentic local experiences on any Greek island.

About the Saints

The Holy Unmercenaries — Anargyroi in Greek — are a loosely defined group of early Christian saints united by one characteristic: they healed the sick without accepting money or material reward. The tradition stands in deliberate contrast to the fee-based medicine of the ancient world, and their veneration became widespread across the Byzantine Empire and continues throughout the Orthodox world today.

The most celebrated pair are the twin brothers Kosmas and Damian, believed to have been trained physicians who traveled through Syria and Asia Minor treating patients free of charge in the late 3rd and early 4th centuries. Their martyrdom under the Emperor Diocletian, and the subsequent reports of healing miracles at their shrines, established them as patron saints of doctors, pharmacists, and the sick. Churches dedicated to them were often built near natural springs, which were themselves associated with healing in both pre-Christian and Christian tradition.

Other saints gathered under the Anargyroi title include Kyros and John, who were venerated in Alexandria; Panteleimon, a physician-martyr from Nicomedia; Thallaelaeus, a Syrian ascetic; Hermolaos; and in later tradition, the Russian saints Agapit of the Caves. Each brings a slightly different biography, but the shared quality of selfless healing gives the group its coherence as objects of popular devotion.

On Ios, as on many Cycladic islands, chapels dedicated to healing saints were often founded by families who had experienced illness or recovery and wished to give thanks. The chapel of the Holy Unmercenaries on Ios almost certainly has its own founding story, likely held in the memory of the family or community that tends it today.