Bakalogatos

Bakalogatos is a straightforward Greek taverna in Apiranthos, the marble-paved mountain village perched at 600 meters in Naxos's interior. With 687 reviews averaging 4.8 stars, it's the kind of place locals recommend when you ask where they actually eat.

What to Expect

The menu leans traditional: expect grilled meats, stews, village salads with Naxian potatoes, and seasonal vegetable dishes that change based on what's available. The cooking is home-style rather than refined, portions are generous, and the setting is casual — tables spill onto the street in warm months. Service is family-run, which means it can be slow when the village fills with day-trippers, but the pace matches the mountain village rhythm.

How to Get There

Apiranthos sits 28 kilometers east of Naxos Town, roughly 40 minutes by car via the main mountain road through Filoti. Follow signs for Apiranthos after Chalki; the road climbs steadily with hairpin turns. Once in the village, park at the main lot near the entrance — Apiranthos is pedestrian-only in the center — and walk up through the marble-flagged lanes. Bakalogatos is in the village core; ask anyone if you lose the thread.

No direct bus service runs frequently enough to rely on for a meal stop, so plan to drive or join a guided island tour that includes an Apiranthos lunch break.

Tips for Visiting

• Arrive before 1:30 PM or after 3 PM — tour groups flood the village midday and tables fill fast.
• Bring cash — many mountain tavernas don't take cards, and there's no mention of payment methods for Bakalogatos.
• Explore before you eat — Apiranthos has four small museums (archaeology, folklore, natural history, geology) all within 100 meters of the main square, and they're worth 30 minutes.
• Dress in layers — even in July, the altitude keeps Apiranthos 5–8°C cooler than the coast, and the breeze picks up by mid-afternoon.
• Don't expect a printed English menu — the taverna serves a rotating selection, often recited at the table; just ask what's ready.

What's Nearby

Apiranthos itself is the draw: narrow arcaded lanes, Venetian towers, and a working village feel that hasn't been polished for tourists. The Panagia Aperathitissa church, just off the main square, has an intricately carved wooden iconostasis. For a post-lunch walk, follow the old footpath toward Moutsouna (about 10 kilometers downhill to the coast, though you'll want to arrange a ride back). The route passes through abandoned emery mines and terraced slopes with sweeping views to the eastern shore.

If you're driving, Chalki — the former island capital — is 10 minutes west and has the Vallindras Kitron Distillery, where you can taste the local citron liqueur. Filoti, another 5 minutes beyond that, sits at the base of Mount Zas (Zeus), Naxos's highest peak and a popular half-day hike.