Taverna Delfinaki

Taverna Delfinaki sits in Lionas, a small coastal village on the rugged eastern shore of Naxos — roughly 30 kilometres from Naxos Town across the island's mountainous spine. The drive alone signals you're heading somewhere that hasn't been overrun: Lionas is a working fishing settlement with a natural harbour, little tourist infrastructure, and this taverna as its main draw. A 4.7-star rating across 568 Google reviews, alongside a strong Tripadvisor following, suggests that the detour pays off.

The name Delfinaki means "little dolphin" in Greek, which fits the harbour setting. This is the kind of place you come to for straightforward, well-executed Greek cooking in a location that still feels local.

What to Expect

Delfinaki operates as a traditional Greek taverna rather than a tourist-facing restaurant. The kitchen draws on what the eastern Aegean delivers: fresh fish, grilled meats, and the standard roster of mezes — tzatziki, horiatiki salad, grilled octopus, fried cheese — made with Naxian produce where possible. Naxos is known for its potatoes, cheeses (graviera, arseniko, kefalotyri), and local capers, and a taverna of this reputation in a fishing village will typically work them into the menu.

The setting is the other reason people make the trip. Lionas harbour is compact and sheltered, and the taverna's position near the waterfront means you eat within earshot of the water. Seating is relaxed and unfussy. Open from 9:00 AM through 11:30 PM every day of the week, Delfinaki covers everything from a late breakfast to a long dinner.

How to Get There

Lionas is on the east coast of Naxos, accessed via a winding mountain road that crosses through the Tragaea valley and the villages of Filoti or Apeiranthos. From Naxos Town, allow around 45–50 minutes by car. The road is paved but narrow in sections, so take it slowly.

By bus, KTEL Naxos runs routes toward the inland villages; check the current timetable at the Naxos Town bus station, as service to Lionas specifically can be limited and seasonal. A taxi from Naxos Town is a straightforward option if you want to avoid driving the mountain road at night after dinner.

Parking in Lionas is informal and limited — arrive early in high season or park at the edge of the village and walk the short distance to the waterfront.

Best Time to Visit

Delfinaki is open year-round according to posted hours, but Lionas is quieter outside the summer months. July and August bring more visitors who have discovered the village precisely because it's off the main tourist track — book ahead or arrive early for lunch to secure a table. The shoulder months of May, June, and September offer the easiest access and the most relaxed atmosphere, with reliable weather and shorter waits.

For the best light and a cooler meal, a late lunch from 2:00 PM onward works well in summer. Evening dinners in July and August can stretch long into the night, which is part of the appeal.

Tips for Visiting

• Call ahead in peak season. The phone number is +30 2285 051290. A quick call on the day, even without a formal reservation system, tells you whether it's busy and gives the kitchen a heads-up.
• Bring cash. Remote Naxian tavernas don't always have reliable card facilities; cash is the safe option.
• Pair dinner with the drive. The road through Apeiranthos and down to Lionas passes through some of the most dramatic landscape on the island — leave Naxos Town with enough daylight to enjoy it.
• Try the local cheese. Naxian graviera and the sharper arseniko are island specialties; any meze plate here is a good opportunity to try them.
• Combine with Apeiranthos. The mountain village of Apeiranthos, roughly 15 minutes from Lionas, is worth an hour on the way back — marble-paved lanes, a small archaeological museum, and traditional kafeneions.
• Check the Facebook page (facebook.com/delfinaki.gr) for any seasonal closure notices before making the drive in spring or autumn.

What's Nearby

Lionas itself is small — the harbour, a few houses, and the taverna are essentially the village. The beach at Lionas is a grey-marble-pebble cove typical of the eastern coast, calm and clear but not sandy. It's a short walk from the taverna and a decent spot for a swim before or after eating.

Further along the eastern coast road, Moutsouna has a larger beach and a former emery port. Inland, Apeiranthos and Filoti are the main villages worth building into a day itinerary on this side of the island.