Taverna Douzenia

Taverna Douzenia is located in Lionas (also spelled Lioñas), a small fishing and marble-quarrying village on the northeast coast of Naxos. The village sits at the end of a winding mountain road, largely off the tourist circuit, which makes the taverna a destination in its own right rather than a convenient stop between sights.

The address places it squarely in the village of Lionas, postal code 843 02 — one of the quieter corners of the Cyclades, where the main sounds are the sea and the occasional fishing boat engine.

What to Expect

Taverna Douzenia operates in the classic Greek taverna tradition: simple surroundings, cooking based on local and seasonal ingredients, and the kind of hospitality that assumes you have time to linger. Lionas itself sits beside a distinctive dark-pebbled cove, and tavernas in the village typically look out over the bay. Expect fresh fish when the catch allows, alongside staples such as grilled meats, horiatiki salad made with Naxian tomatoes, and locally produced cheeses — Naxos is one of the best cheese-producing islands in the Cyclades, known for graviera and arseniko.

This is not a polished restaurant with a printed cocktail menu. It is the kind of place where the day's options may be explained verbally, portions are generous, and the olive oil comes from the island.

How to Get There

Lionas is on the northeast coast of Naxos, roughly 35 km from Naxos Town by road. The most practical way to reach it is by car or motorbike — the road climbs through the interior, passing through or near the mountain villages of Koronos and Skado, and offers some of the most dramatic inland scenery on the island.

Public bus service to Lionas is limited. KTEL Naxos operates routes into the island's interior, but schedules to the northeast coast villages are infrequent and change seasonally — check the current timetable at the bus station in Naxos Town before relying on this option. A taxi from Naxos Town is a viable alternative for those without a rental vehicle.

Parking in Lionas is informal; the village is small enough that you can leave a car near the waterfront without difficulty.

Best Time to Visit

The taverna is most reliably open during the summer season, roughly May through October. August brings the most visitors to Naxos generally, but Lionas remains far less crowded than the west-coast beach resorts, so finding a table is rarely a problem even in peak season.

Lunch, when the light is good and the fishing boats have come in, is a natural fit for this setting. The drive through the mountains is best done in daylight — the road is narrow in sections.

In the shoulder months of May, June, and September, the northeast coast has a particular quiet that suits a long meal by the water.

The Drive to Lionas: A Reason to Go

The route from Naxos Town to Lionas through the mountainous interior is one of the island's best drives. The road passes through Filoti — the largest inland village on Naxos, sitting below Mount Zas — and continues through emery-mining and farming country before descending to the coast. Emery, a hard abrasive stone, was historically quarried in this part of Naxos, and the landscape still bears traces of that industry alongside olive groves and terraced hillsides. Coming to Taverna Douzenia is as much about the journey as the destination.

Tips for Visiting

• Drive or hire a scooter. The bus connection is unreliable for a planned meal. A rental car also lets you stop at mountain villages on the way.
• Go for lunch if you can. The coastal light in the early afternoon suits the setting, and you'll have daylight for the return drive through the mountains.
• Arrive without fixed expectations. Menu availability depends on season and catch. The taverna format works best when you ask what's good today rather than arriving with a specific dish in mind.
• Combine with a swim. Lionas has a dark-pebble beach directly in the village. The water is clear and the cove is sheltered — a swim before or after eating is easy to arrange.
• Carry cash. Small village tavernas in remote locations on Greek islands frequently operate on a cash-only basis. There is no ATM in Lionas; withdraw in Naxos Town or Filoti before making the trip.