Taverna Platanos

Taverna Platanos sits in the marble-paved village of Apiranthos in the mountainous interior of Naxos, in the shadow of a Venetian tower and beneath a plane tree that has been giving shade to diners since long before the taverna opened in 1982. With nearly 2,000 Google ratings averaging 4.5 stars, it is one of the most consistently well-regarded restaurants on the island — and one of the few that earns that reputation away from the coast.

Apiranthos itself is unlike anywhere else on Naxos. The village is built almost entirely from white marble and slate, its lanes too narrow for cars, its atmosphere closer to a Cretan mountain settlement than a Cycladic beach town. Platanos fits the setting: a straightforward, honest taverna that has been feeding locals and travelers for over four decades.

What to Expect

The setting alone makes the meal. Tables are arranged outside under the canopy of the ancient plane tree, with the Venetian tower visible above. The kitchen focuses on traditional Greek and Naxian cooking — the kind built around slow-braised meats, locally grown vegetables, and the island's own cheeses. Naxos produces some of the best graviera and arseniko cheese in Greece, and both typically appear in one form or another on the table. Expect dishes like slow-cooked lamb or goat, village sausages, loukoumades (honey fritters), and mezedes that reflect what the surrounding farms and hillsides produce.

The restaurant is open every day from 11:00 AM to midnight, which means it covers both lunch and dinner. Given the village setting and the relaxed pace, lingering over a long lunch here makes more sense than rushing through a dinner booking.

How to Get There

Apiranthos is roughly 35 km from Naxos Town, in the island's mountainous center. By car or scooter, take the main road east from Naxos Town toward Filoti, then continue northeast up through the mountains — the drive takes around 40 minutes and the views over the interior valleys are worth it. There is limited parking at the entrance to the village; leave your vehicle there and walk in on foot, as the lanes are pedestrian-only.

Public buses from Naxos Town (KTEL) run to Apiranthos several times daily in summer, though the schedule reduces significantly off-season. Check the current KTEL Naxos timetable before relying on it. Taxis from Naxos Town are available and practical if you're traveling in a small group.

Best Time to Visit

Lunch on a weekday in late spring or early September gives you the best version of this experience: the village is quiet, the plane tree provides real shade, and the kitchen is fully stocked from local suppliers. July and August bring more tourists to Apiranthos, which remains less crowded than coastal Naxos but noticeably busier than shoulder season. The taverna is open year-round, and a winter or autumn visit — when Apiranthos is almost entirely given over to local life — has its own appeal.

Evening meals work well too; the village is atmospheric after dark and the tower is lit, but the outdoor setting is at its best in daylight.

A Note on Apiranthos

If you're driving up from the coast, build in time to walk the village before or after eating. The Archaeological Museum of Apiranthos (one of several small museums here) is a short walk from the plateia and holds Cycladic-era finds from the surrounding area. The village's reputation for intellectual and political life — it has produced a disproportionate number of academics and politicians — gives it an atmosphere that's noticeably different from beach-resort Naxos.

Tips for Visiting

• Call ahead for reservations, especially on summer weekends: +30 2285 061192. The outdoor seating fills up on warm evenings.
• Drive, don't rush. The mountain road from Filoti to Apiranthos is winding but well-paved; allow more time than the map suggests.
• Order the local cheeses. Naxian graviera and arseniko are regional products worth seeking out, and a village taverna like this is the right place to eat them.
• Combine with Filoti or Halki. Both villages are on the same mountain road and worth a stop — Halki has a handful of artisan shops and the Vallindras Kitron distillery.
• Bring cash. Card acceptance in mountain village tavernas can be unreliable; confirm when you call.
• Check the bus schedule in advance if you're relying on KTEL — the return service to Naxos Town in the evening has fewer departures than the morning routes.