To Kokkinaki

To Kokkinaki sits in Kinidaros, a small marble-quarrying village in the hilly interior of Naxos, roughly 12 kilometres from Naxos Town. This is not a beachside taverna angling for tourist trade — it's the kind of place where the food is straightforward, the setting unpretentious, and the clientele a mix of locals and the occasional visitor who has made the effort to drive inland.

Kinidaros itself is known for its live music tradition, particularly violin-led Naxian folk music, and a meal at To Kokkinaki puts you in the middle of the village rather than on the tourist circuit. The address on the Epar.Od. Naxou-Monis road — the provincial route linking Naxos Town with the mountain villages — makes it easy to combine with a broader tour of the island's interior.

What to Expect

To Kokkinaki operates as a casual taverna, meaning the menu leans on Greek staples: slow-cooked meat dishes, mezedes, seasonal vegetables, and local Naxian produce. The island is one of the best-provisioned in the Cyclades — potatoes, cheeses like graviera and arseniko, and locally raised pork and lamb all appear regularly in mountain-village cooking. Expect portions sized for appetite rather than Instagram, served in a relaxed dining room or outdoor seating depending on the season. The atmosphere is unpretentious; dress accordingly.

No website or online menu is available for To Kokkinaki, so it's worth calling ahead — particularly out of peak season — to confirm hours and availability.

How to Get There

Kinidaros is accessible by car or scooter via the main inland road heading north from Naxos Town toward Koronos. The drive takes approximately 20–25 minutes from Chora. Follow signs toward Koronos and Moni; Kinidaros is signed off the main route. Parking in the village is informal and usually easy to find near the central square.

There is a KTEL bus service from Naxos Town that covers some inland villages, but schedules to Kinidaros are limited and not suited to an evening meal. A rental car or scooter is the practical choice for most visitors. Taxis from Naxos Town are available; agree a return time or have the number handy for the trip back.

Best Time to Visit

Like most inland Naxos tavernas, To Kokkinaki is best visited outside the peak midday heat of July and August — a late lunch starting around 1:30 or 2pm, or an early evening meal, suits the pace of a village setting. Spring (April–May) and early autumn (September–October) are ideal: the roads are quieter, the landscape is green or golden, and the village feels genuinely lived-in rather than tourist-adjacent.

Kinidaros hosts traditional music evenings during summer festivals; if your visit coincides with one, the village takes on a different energy entirely.

Tips for Visiting

• Call ahead: With no website or published hours, a quick call to +30 2285 031398 before making the drive is worthwhile, especially in shoulder season.
• Combine with an inland drive: Kinidaros sits within easy reach of Halki, Filoti, and the Tragaea plateau — plan To Kokkinaki as a lunch stop on a longer mountain route.
• Order local: Ask specifically for dishes using Naxian graviera cheese, locally raised meat, or whatever the kitchen has that day — village tavernas often cook what's fresh rather than a fixed menu.
• Bring cash: Small inland tavernas on Greek islands frequently operate cash-only; it's safer to assume this until told otherwise.
• Don't rush: The pace is slow by design. A village lunch here is an hour-plus affair.

About Kinidaros

Kinidaros has a population of a few hundred and is one of several marble-rich villages strung along the slopes of Mount Koronos. The village is particularly associated with Naxian traditional music — local musicians here have helped preserve the island's distinct violin and lute style. Eating at a taverna like To Kokkinaki is as much about experiencing a working Cycladic village as it is about the food itself. The surrounding landscape — terraced hillsides, marble outcroppings, Byzantine footpaths — rewards anyone who lingers after the meal.