Palaia Kameni

Palaia Kameni sits in the middle of the Santorini caldera, one of two small volcanic islets that rise from the submerged crater left by one of the largest eruptions in recorded geological history. Getting there requires a boat — there are no roads, no ferry terminals, and no bridge. That inaccessibility is precisely the point. The bar here serves drinks to visitors who have come ashore from caldera cruises, day-trip boats, and private sailboats anchored off the islet's dark volcanic shoreline.

The islet is better known for its geothermal hot springs than for its bar, but the two coexist. Warm mineral water seeps up from the seafloor close to shore, creating a distinctive rust-orange discoloration in the water where it mixes with the sea. The bar gives you somewhere to sit, have a cold drink, and dry off after a swim in those springs — a straightforward but genuinely useful function when you're in the middle of the caldera with nothing around you but water and ash-colored rock.

Palaia Kameni (sometimes spelled Palia Kameni, meaning "Old Burnt Island" in Greek) is the older of the two volcanic islands in the caldera. Its neighbor, Nea Kameni ("New Burnt Island"), is the more visited of the pair, since it hosts a walkable crater trail. Palaia Kameni is quieter and less developed, which gives the bar here a stripped-back, end-of-the-world atmosphere that Oia's cliffside bars cannot replicate.

What to Expect

The bar on Palaia Kameni is a simple setup suited to a volcanic islet with no permanent population and no infrastructure beyond what boats bring in. Expect basic seating — likely wooden benches or chairs — a counter serving cold drinks, beer, and possibly simple snacks, and an unobstructed view of the caldera rim with Fira and the white-and-blue cliffside towns of Santorini visible in the distance.

The surrounding landscape is dark, raw, and almost entirely unvegetated: compacted volcanic ash, hardened lava, and reddish-brown mineral deposits stained by centuries of geothermal activity. The hot springs themselves are a short distance from the usual mooring and disembarkation points. The water temperature in the springs varies but is noticeably warm compared to the open Aegean — many visitors describe it as bath-like in sections closest to the vents.

The orange-brown mineral staining in the water is sulfur-based and can affect light-colored swimwear permanently, so wear something dark or old if you plan to swim. The seabed near the springs is also uneven and rocky, so water shoes are a sensible choice.

The bar draws a mixed crowd: day-trippers from Fira port, passengers on organized caldera dinner and sunset cruises, and independent sailors anchored overnight in the caldera. Quieter in the morning, it fills up during the mid-afternoon heat when swimmers want shade and something cold, and again in the early evening when sunset cruises pass through.

How to Get There

Palaia Kameni is accessible only by water. The standard departure point for caldera boat trips is the old port of Fira (Skala Fira), reached by cable car, donkey path, or on foot via 588 steps from the town above. Boats also depart from Athinios port, the main ferry port on Santorini's west coast, and from Oia's small harbor at Ammoudi Bay.

Organized day cruises from Fira typically stop at both Nea Kameni and Palaia Kameni, allowing time for the crater walk on Nea Kameni and a hot springs swim at Palaia Kameni, often combined with a stop at Thirasia island. These tours run throughout the tourist season, generally April through October.

Private sailboat and catamaran charters also include caldera islet stops as standard itinerary points. If you are chartering independently, anchoring off Palaia Kameni is straightforward in calm conditions, though the caldera can experience strong northerly winds (the meltemi) in summer afternoons.

There is no public bus service to Palaia Kameni. Taxis from Fira to the old port are available but the cable car or the walk down the steps is the more direct option once you're in Fira town.

Best Time to Visit

The caldera boat season runs from approximately April to late October, with the highest concentration of cruises and day trips between June and September. July and August bring the largest crowds to both Kameni islets; boats can be busy and the hot springs area congested during peak afternoon hours.

Early morning trips — boats that depart Fira port by 9 or 10am — reach Palaia Kameni before the main rush and allow for a quieter swim. Sunset cruises are the most popular organized option, and while the caldera view at that hour is genuinely worth experiencing, the boats are typically at full capacity.

Spring (April–May) and early autumn (September–October) offer more comfortable temperatures for the crater walk on neighboring Nea Kameni and a less crowded hot springs experience. The Aegean meltemi wind tends to peak in July and August, making afternoon sea conditions rougher; morning departures are calmer during those months.

Winter visits are not practical — organized caldera boats do not operate, and independent sailing in the caldera in the off-season requires experience with unpredictable Aegean conditions.

Tips for Visiting

• Wear dark swimwear. The mineral-rich water near the hot springs contains iron sulfate compounds that leave orange-brown stains on fabric. Light-colored or white swimsuits will likely be permanently discolored after a swim here.
• Bring water shoes. The volcanic rock and seabed around the disembarkation point is sharp and uneven. Rubber-soled water shoes make entering and exiting the water significantly easier.
• Book caldera tours early in the day if possible. Afternoon boats arrive at Palaia Kameni during peak heat and with maximum crowd overlap from multiple tour operators.
• Rinse off after the springs. Most boats have a freshwater shower or rinse station on deck. Use it promptly — the mineral residue dries on skin quickly and can be difficult to remove later.
• Don't expect a full restaurant. The bar on Palaia Kameni is a drinks and light refreshments stop, not a lunch venue. If you're on an all-day cruise, check whether meals are included on the boat.
• The crater walk is on Nea Kameni, not here. If you want to hike to the volcanic crater, make sure your tour includes a stop at Nea Kameni, the neighboring islet. Palaia Kameni is the hot springs stop; the two are distinct destinations often combined in the same trip.
• Bring cash. On a remote volcanic islet, reliable card payment infrastructure cannot be assumed. Carry euros for any drinks or items you plan to purchase at the bar.
• Protect your camera and phone. Getting in and out of the water involves scrambling over volcanic rock, and the springs area is wet and slippery. A waterproof case or dry bag is worth bringing.

History and Context

Palaia Kameni has been geologically active for roughly 2,000 years, with its earliest recorded eruption around 197 BC. It is the older of the two volcanic islets that formed within the Santorini caldera after the catastrophic Minoan eruption of approximately 1600 BC — an event so large it partially collapsed the island and created the caldera that now defines Santorini's shape.

The name translates directly from Greek as "Old Burnt Island," which distinguishes it from Nea Kameni ("New Burnt Island"), which emerged from a series of eruptions beginning in the 1st century AD and is considerably younger in geological terms. Nea Kameni has also been more volcanically active in the modern era, with eruptions recorded as recently as 1950.

Palaia Kameni's geothermal activity today is expressed primarily through the hot springs rather than surface eruptions. The springs have been documented by travelers since the early modern period, and the islet appeared on Ottoman-era maps of the Aegean. It remains uninhabited and has never been developed beyond minimal visitor facilities, keeping it closer in character to its original state than much else in the caldera.

The entire caldera system — including both Kameni islets — sits within the South Aegean Volcanic Arc, which stretches from the Greek mainland toward Turkey and includes Milos, Nisyros, and Kos among its other volcanic islands.