Ithaki tou Ai

Ithaki tou Ai sits on Kiparissou street in Ermoupoli, the capital of Syros and the administrative centre of the Cyclades. With a 4.5-star rating across more than 2,000 Google reviews, it has established a consistent reputation among both locals and visitors — not an easy thing to do in a town where residents take their food seriously.

The taverna operates from noon through midnight every day of the week, which makes it one of the more flexible dining options in a city that can occasionally feel like it shuts down between the afternoon siesta and evening service. Whether you arrive for a long midday meal or a late dinner after an evening stroll along the neoclassical waterfront, the kitchen is running.

The name translates roughly to "Ithaka of the Saint" — a poetic nod to the Homeric island of return, suggesting a place you come back to. Given what reviewers consistently say about the food, the name holds up.

What to Expect

Ithaki tou Ai fits the description of a classic Greek taverna: a homey setting, straightforward cooking, and dishes that rely on ingredient quality rather than elaborate technique. The address places it away from the immediate port-front bustle, giving it a slightly more neighbourhood feel than the tourist-facing restaurants that line the promenade.

The grilled feta stands out in visitor accounts — a simple preparation that depends entirely on the cheese being good, which here it apparently is. The sardines, a staple of Cycladic cooking, appear regularly in positive reviews; Syros is a fishing island and the proximity to the harbour means the day's catch moves quickly from boat to kitchen. The veal steak is noted as another strong point, prepared in the straightforward way that good tavernas favour: seasoned properly, cooked to the right temperature, served without distraction.

The Syros salad is worth mentioning specifically. Syros has its own local version of the Greek salad that sometimes incorporates capers, local cheese, and ingredients particular to the island. If it's on the menu, it's worth ordering over the standard version you'd find anywhere in Greece.

Portions at traditional Greek tavernas tend to be generous. A table of two ordering two starters, two mains, and a carafe of house wine will rarely leave hungry or surprised by the bill. Service in places like this is typically casual and efficient rather than formal.

How to Get There

The restaurant is at the corner of Klonos and Kiparissou 1A in Ermoupoli. From the central Miaouli Square — the main neoclassical square with the town hall — it's a short walk west through the residential streets behind the square. The area is navigable on foot, and Ermoupoli is a compact city where almost everything of interest is within ten to fifteen minutes of the port.

If you're arriving by ferry, the port is Ermoupoli's main entry point. From the ferry terminal, walk north along the waterfront and then cut inland toward the centre. Taxis are available at the port and at the main square.

Parking in central Ermoupoli can be tight, particularly in July and August. If you're based outside the town centre and driving in, aim for the areas along the waterfront or near the port where street parking tends to open up more in the evenings.

The address is accessible on foot without significant inclines in this part of Ermoupoli, unlike the Vaporia neighbourhood or the upper town near Ano Syros, which involve steep climbs.

Best Time to Visit

Syros has a longer dining season than many Cycladic islands because Ermoupoli functions as a year-round city with a resident population, civil servants, and a working port. Ithaki tou Ai appears to operate consistently through the year rather than closing for winter like many island restaurants.

For lunch, arriving between 1:00 PM and 2:30 PM puts you in the middle of the Greek lunch window when the kitchen is in full swing. Dinner service picks up after 8:30 PM; arriving before then on a busy summer evening may mean a quieter table but also a slightly less energetic atmosphere.

July and August are Syros's busiest months, and Ermoupoli fills with both Greek summer visitors and international tourists. Booking ahead or arriving at opening time is sensible during peak weeks. In shoulder season — May, June, September, and October — the town is still active but the pace is more relaxed.

Syros is one of the few Cycladic islands that has meaningful winter life. A February lunch here, when the Aegean is quiet and the neoclassical streets are mostly occupied by locals, is a genuinely different experience from a August dinner during the high season.

Tips for Visiting

• Call ahead in high season. The phone number is +30 2281 082060. Even a call the morning of your visit can help secure a table at a preferred time.
• Order the grilled feta. It comes up in reviewer accounts consistently enough that skipping it would be missing one of the kitchen's strengths.
• Try the sardines if they're on the menu. Syros has direct access to Aegean fish, and sardines at a well-run taverna near a working port are rarely the same as sardines elsewhere.
• Ask about the Syros salad. If the kitchen is making a local version with island-specific ingredients rather than a standard Greek salad, that's the one to order.
• Bring cash as backup. Most Greek restaurants now accept cards, but smaller tavernas in Ermoupoli occasionally have connectivity issues with card terminals, and having euros on hand avoids any awkwardness at the end of the meal.
• The kitchen runs until midnight. If you've spent a long evening at one of the island's bars or walking the waterfront, arriving for a late dinner around 10:00 or 10:30 PM is entirely within normal dining hours here.
• Pair the meal with local wine. Syros and the wider Cyclades produce wine from indigenous grape varieties. Ask what's available by the carafe or glass rather than defaulting to a national brand.
• Explore the neighbourhood before or after. The streets around Kiparissou are residential Ermoupoli at its most authentic — neoclassical mansions, small churches, and corner kafeneions that haven't changed their look in decades.

What to Order

Based on what reviewers have flagged, a well-constructed meal at Ithaki tou Ai might look like this:

To start: Grilled feta is the clear standout from available accounts. It often comes dressed with olive oil and oregano, sometimes with a little chilli. Sardines can work equally well as a starter or a light main.

Main course: The veal steak has been noted as a strong point, prepared in a straightforward taverna style. Greek tavernas generally handle meat with more restraint than fuss — the quality of the cut and the heat of the grill do most of the work.

Salad: Order the Syros salad rather than the standard horiatiki if it's available. Syros has its own culinary identity within the Cyclades, and local salads often include capers, local soft cheeses, or cured fish preparations you won't find on the mainland.

To drink: House carafe wine is the practical choice for a casual taverna lunch or dinner. Syros doesn't have the same wine-producing reputation as Santorini or Paros, but local Cycladic wines are worth exploring when available. Finish with a Greek coffee or a small carafe of local spirit if the mood calls for it.

The menu at a traditional Greek taverna changes with season and availability. What's excellent in summer — fresh tomatoes, fish from that morning's catch, grilled vegetables — shifts in winter toward slower-cooked dishes, legumes, and preserved ingredients. Both versions are worth experiencing.